IN THE GARDEN

By Doreen Trudel

September begins a busy but rewarding time in the garden which lasts throughout fall. There are routine chores to do and preparation for winter but when the cooler fall weather arrives it is also a great time to plant. No matter what your particular horticultural interest you can find an excuse to get your hands dirty while imagining next year’s garden.
Late September through October is the ideal time to plant most trees and shrubs which spend the winter developing roots and preparing for spring growth. By planting in fall you give them time to grow below the soil before the shoots and buds need more energy in spring. The major exception to this guideline is bare-rooted plants such as fruit trees and roses which are planted in early spring.

Perennials and bulbs also benefit from planting and dividing at this time. Spring and early summer blooming flowers including peonies can be divided now but late summer and fall blooming plants should be divided in spring. One way to tell if your perennial or bulb needs dividing is to look at the center of the plant. If the center looks brown and woody or has not been blooming but there is lush new growth around the edges then it is probably time to divide the plant and discard the woody section. The library has several good propagation books which have excellent illustrations of the various methods of dividing plants but basically you should dig out the whole clump then using a knife or garden forks gently cut or pull apart sections from the parent plant. This looks more obvious when the clump of plant is sitting in front of you. Simply replant each section as you would if it were newly purchased keeping in mind that it too will grow and have to be divided someday. This is a great way to multiply your garden favorites.

Fall is also the time to plant spring blooming bulbs including lilies and irises. I use the term bulb in the broadest sense to include plants that store food in fleshy structures of varying shapes and are planted in a dried form during their dormant cycle. These include not only true bulbs but corms, tubers, rhizomes and tuberous roots.

Check catalogues and gardening books for photographs and information on specific plants but here are general guidelines about planting bulbs. Most bulbs need well drained soil and a spot that is sunny in winter and spring such as under a deciduous tree or shrub or in a perennial bed. Look for bulbs that are firm with no root growth at the base. The tunic or brownish papery material should still be attached to the bulb. Never plant a bulb that is soft or moldy as that is an indication of disease and a bulb that seems too light weight is probably not viable.

Planting depth is very important for bulbs. It is best to follow the directions that come with the bulbs but failing this I place true bulbs at a depth 3 times the greatest diameter of the bulb. I add a little bone meal to the bottom of the hole, place the bulb root-end down, stem-side up in the hole and cover firmly with soil. In nature bulbs multiply so I try to imitate that naturalized look by planting 5 to 10 bulbs in a group. If you are planting this way you do not have to make individual holes. You can dig one area large enough to hold all the bulbs in the group but not crowd them and continue the planting process. If you want bulbs in an existing lawn simply loosen and roll back the sod, plant the bulb and replace the sod. The bulb will grow through the grass. A few of the most reliable bulbs are: Muscari (grape hyacinth), Galanthus (snowdrops), Crocus, Narcissus, Scilla (bluebells), Erythronium and then for a late spring display try Alliums, Camassia, Fritillaria imperialis and, of course, tulips.

Although summer is coming to an end it isn’t too early to plan for next summer’s lilies. Our climate is ideal for these hard workers and they provide dramatic color and intoxicating scent for so little effort. They need six hours of sun per day with protection from hot afternoon sun and well-drained fertile soil. I add a bit of compost to the planting hole and keep them well mulched and they have been happily blooming and multiplying for several years. The grower will provide information about the variety you are planting so always check any labels or packaging.

Irises grow as rhizomes such as the popular bearded iris or true bulbs of the smaller Dutch, Spanish and English irises. Both types of irises are great in our climate as they do not like wet summer weather. Bearded irises in particular grow in any soil as long as it drains well and they need full sun. Rhizomes should be planted one to two feet apart and the top of the rhizome should be just below the soil surface. Water newly planted irises until rain begins on a weekly basis. During the summer irises need very little water. Two mail order sources for bulbs are www.thelilygarden.com and www.whiteflowerfarm.com. Visit these sites and be amazed at the varieties available.

How To Dry Hydrangeas

When the nights are cool and the flower heads have changed color it is time to cut the blooms for drying. Here are three methods of drying. Experiment and see which method works best for you and enjoy dried blooms all winter.

Method One
Cut the hydrangea bloom, remove leaves and put stems in water.
When the blooms change texture and feel dryer, even slightly, crunchy remove the water and the flowers will remain as they are.

Method Two
Cut the hydrangea bloom, remove leaves and put stems in a dry vase without water then let them dry in a dark, dry place for about a week or so.

Method Three
Cut the hydrangea bloom, remove leaves and tie stems together. Hang stems upside down in a dark dry place for about a week or two.