IN THE GARDEN

By Doreen Trudel

Spring in Point Roberts is a magical time. Within our boundaries we see the bounty of a Pacific Northwest spring such as daffodils, tulips, hyacinth, ribes and forsythia, cherry and apple blossoms, flowering ornamentals such as Saskatoon berry, (Amelanchier), dogwood (Cornus) and lilacs and wisteria just to name a few. Enjoy a walk through the woods and look for delicate native wildflowers such as camas (Camassia quamash), shooting star (Dodecatheon hendersonii), pink fawn lilies (Erythronium revolutum), yellow wood violets (Viola glabella) and trilliums (Trillium ovatum).

This is the busiest season in the garden so there is a lot to talk about. Most plants such as perennials and shrubs pretty much take care of themselves or can be fussed over later in the season, when there are some plants that give you this one chance to help them along. If you miss this window of opportunity you must wait until next year or risk losing this year’s blooms completely. The rose is the first to come to mind when I think of a plant that benefits greatly from extra attention in spring. Because I have been asked so many questions about roses let’s spend some extra time on this beloved plant.

In spring I first prune my roses and then I feed them so I will begin with pruning roses. Common rose wisdom says that when the Forsythia blooms it is time to prune your roses. We are right at the end of the Forsythia so prune now, do not wait until later in the month. There are many excellent books on rose pruning with diagrams and detailed explanations so if you are intrigued by the mysteries and intricacies of the rose and want to delve deeper into the subject check out the gardening section at the library. Be forewarned though, a passion for roses can consume every waking moment if you get hooked.

When you grab your clippers and head to your rose garden it will make the job easier if you understand the why and what you are about to do. The reasons why we prune apply to all pruning jobs. We prune to encourage a healthy plant, eliminating dead and diseased branches. By eliminating crossed and crowded branches we promote good air circulation within the plant structure. We prune to improve the shape and control size according to our aesthetics and space and to keep blooms within viewing level and we prune to encourage and affect new growth.

Before you begin make sure your clippers are sharp and clean. Wipe them down with rubbing alcohol and repeat this at least after pruning each bush, ideally after each cut if there are signs of disease on the plant. O.K. – now you are ready to start.
For all types of roses first prune out any damaged, diseased or crossed branches making sure your cut is well below the diseased wood. Also remove any suckers growing below the graft union or around the base of the plant.

For hybrid tea roses now prune for shape, size and blooms by cutting back approximately 1/3 of the length of the canes. Make an angled cut a quarter inch above an outward facing bud. Prune out some of the canes in the center of the rose bush all the way to the base. Some experts say that you should be able to place a mixing bowl into the inside base of the rose, thus providing plenty of air space within the plant. Finally, step back and look at the shape of the bush and eliminate any errant canes.

Floribunda, polyanthas and shrub roses follow the same general pruning guidelines but are easier to prune because their shrubby nature is very forgiving. You can even use a long handled lopper for your initial shaping and then finish off with a hand clipper.

Once the stem buds start to develop, finger prune (pinch off) any multiple buds growing from the same eye. Leaving only one bud per eye encourages a single strong cane rather than multiple weaker stems. The same principal applies to flower buds. This trick is used by rose growers for competition to encourage larger blooms.
The most important thing to remember when pruning roses is not to be afraid. Roses are very resilient and respond well to hard pruning. Last fall I severely cut back a climbing rose preparing to remove it but I never got around to digging it out. Now it is covered in lush new growth and it is trying so hard to please me that I do not have the heart to eliminate it.

Now that the pruning is finished it is time to fertilize. Last month I discussed various types of fertilizers and their number designations so once you decide which type of fertilizer you want to use, organic or chemical, simply choose a balanced rose food formulation with an NPK of three equal or close numbers such as 10-10-10 or 12-4-8 in spring and then feed them once again after the first blooming with an NPK number with less nitrogen such as 8-16-20. Do not feed with nitrogen after July or tender young growth will develop too late in the season. Follow application directions on the package but first purchase Epsom salts from the market or pharmacy and sprinkle a quarter cup around the base of each rose then apply the fertilizer.

I am experimenting with my own organic concoction of a sprinkling of wood ash to lower the ph of the soil, a quarter cup of Epsom salts for minerals and two cups per bush of alfalfa pellets and soy meal followed by a light top dressing of mushroom manure. I then apply a few inches of mulch to prevent excess water loss, keeping the manure and mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the rose.

This sounds like a lot of work but if you keep your supplies at hand and follow a regular schedule, keeping healthy roses is a pleasant, manageable pastime and you will be rewarded every time you walk in your garden.

C.J. Bloomers is open daily and they have a selection of fruit trees including espaliered trees and some unique examples bearing a variety of fruit on a single plant. Although it is still too early to plant perennials Connie and Deborah are taking orders for baskets and containers. After pruning and feeding your roses relax and enjoy planning for those perennials and bedding plants which will soon be in stock.

April Garden Tasks
Prune Forsythia and winter flowering heather after they bloom.
Check for root weevils on Rhododendrons. They make those notched bites in the leaves. They sleep in the mulch at the base of plant by day but can be picked off by hand from the leaves at night.

Feed winter and spring bulbs after flowering and remove spent flowers on daffodils but leave flower heads on hyacinth and scilla so they reseed themselves. Do not tie or break green leaves, wait until they are yellow to remove them.

Plant Gladioli now and then plant more in a few weeks for successive blooms.

Remove all dead branches or stems and last year’s flowers from perennials.

Although it is too early to plant perennials you can plant shrubs.